Kebabs, Aromatic Biryani and So Much More: A Historic Indian City Secures a Place on the UNESCO Creative Cities List.

Biryani cooking using the time-honored Dum method
Biryani in Lucknow is simmered on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the vessel's cover securely closed with dough.

Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.

The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors alike celebrating its superb cuisine.

A Global Honor

Last month, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a global network of cities cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".

The recognition "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.

Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.

A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine

The honor for this time-honored city is no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".

With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially defined its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.

"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
Melt-in-the-mouth kebabs as a dish
Lucknow is celebrated for its succulent kebabs.

An Imperial Food Tradition

The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.

These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.

It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.

But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.

Beyond Kebabs and Biryani

Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).

However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.

The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.

Frothy dessert a winter specialty
The city showcases special seasonal delights, such as Makkhan Malai, a unique cloud-like dessert, in the winter.

Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops

Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are wildly favored by the locals.

In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.

In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).

Popular tea stall offering masala chai
A legendary tea stall is noted for its milky spiced tea.

Preserving Tradition for the Future

The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.

On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their younger generation do not want to learn the skill.

A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.

Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.

The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these tales and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.

Amanda Santana
Amanda Santana

Lena Visser is a Dutch new media artist specializing in interactive installations that blend wave patterns with audiovisual technology.